"What Should I Do If My Dog Growls At Me?"

Growling

 

“What should I do if my dog growls at me?” is a question that trainers frequently hear. Even though it’s a common question, the “correct” answer is hotly debated among trainers. Here are some of the most popular   answers, along with their pros and cons:

 

Option 1: Do nothing. Remain perfectly still.

Pro:   Not a bad choice. Easy to execute.
Con: You run the risk of getting bitten if the dog is growling to signal a desire   for increased distance (i.e. “Go away!”).

 

Option 2:  Redirect the dog. Offer a bone, toy or food treat to get his mind on something else.

Pro:   Amateur trainers safely escape injury all the time with this time honored maneuver.

Con:  What you’re really doing is reinforcing, not redirecting. You  are rewarding the behavior. Dog growls, he gets a treat or toy – that’s a positive reward. When you reward a behavior you increase the likelihood that it will happen again.

 

Option 3: Correct the behavior immediately. For example, frontally align yourself and make direct eye contact, scold in a low tone of voice and if necessary do a leash correction. Teach the dog that it is never acceptable to growl  at you.  

Pro:       Looks great on TV shows (if the dog backs down).

Con #1: This response has a good chance of actually triggering a bite.
Con #2: If it does not trigger a bite, you will be shutting down your dog’s   warning system, making the dog much more dangerous. In the future when he feels threatened, instead of giving you a warning (growl) he will bite.

As you can see, this is not an easy question to answer. The better question may be, “How can I avoid situations which make my dog growl?” By avoiding known triggers we can greatly reduce the need to deal with a growling dog in the first place. A good handler knows his dog, reads his dog and understands his dog’s temperament, drive and personality. A good handler knows how to prevent situations that will cause a dog to growl.

Option 4:  Ignoring, rewarding, or confronting a growl may have undesirable consequences. The best option is to shift the dog from a threatening mode to a cooperative mode by putting him into drive. Your attitude  becomes, “I’m not interested in your growl. I’m doing this new activity instead.” When you put a previously growling dog into working drive, you shift him into a completely different frame of mind. For example, one might go get the dog’s leash and put him into a happy, “let’s go for a walk” frame of mind. Or call him to sit, down, and then reward with a treat.*

 

This is NOT the same thing as Option 2 above (“redirect”). Putting the dog into working mode operates on the principle that active submission is first obtained by evoking a new response, and then rewarding the new behavior.

 

The handler must do sufficient groundwork for this procedure to be effective. The  dog must know and respond to obedience commands. That’s one reason why we always include basic obedience training (aka "foundational behaviors") as part of our aggression rehabilitation protocols.

 

If option 4 is done correctly, there is little chance of inadvertently reinforcing the aggressive  behavior, because you are first evoking a new response to gain submission, and then offering the reward, rather than directly rewarding the undesirable behavior. It’s unlikely that the dog will “connect the dots” since dogs have a hard time with linear thinking. But even if he  does, this is still a MUCH better option than confronting or punishing the dog. When you punish growling you risk  shutting down the dog’s warning system. Remember, a dog who knows how to warn (growl) is much safer to work    with than one who bites without warning.  

 

Conclusion: Next time a dog growls at you, avoid the temptation to use options 1, 2 or 3. Instead, diffuse the situation by shifting the dog into working drive to bring him from an undesirable state of mind into a safer one. *Note: Option 4 should not be used in situations involving resource guarding (e.g. food, toys, treats, stolen objects). 

What is THE Most Important Dog Obedience Command?

As the saying goes, “The only thing that two dog trainers agree on is that the third dog trainer is wrong.”  This is particularly true when discussing which of the “basic obedience commands” is the most important. (Some trainers don’t like the word “command” at all, preferring the less authoritarian sounding term “cue.” But for this post, we’re going to use the more familiar term, “command.”)

Trainers don’t agree on which command is the most important. In fact, they don’t even agree on the list of what the BASIC obedience commands are!  Some trainers add “look, touch, wait, leave-it, place, off, away, stand” and many others to the list of basics. These can be important things to teach your dog, but in our program, we always begin with the following five basic obedience commands:  sit, down, come, stay and drop-it.   (Note: We also teach heel, aka "loose leash walking" to all dogs in our basic obedience program, but it is considered to be an exercise rather than a command, so for that technical reason we're not including it on the list.)

Any dog who does not do all five of these on command, under distraction, is not fully under the owner’s control.

Before I can answer the question, “Which one of the five basic commands is the most important?” I want to first discuss why each one of them is vital:

·        Sit is the most frequently used command. It is part of a lifestyle of routine and polite deference to the owner (e.g. sit for meals, sit to receive a toy or bone, etc.). It’s also necessary for a dog to learn first, so that we can more easily train two of the other commands (stay and down). 

·        Down doesn’t mean “get off” - it means lie down – all the way down so that the dog’s chest is on the floor. It is the most submissive posture a dog can take. It shows trust, it helps teach self-control, and it helps a dog to learn to settle when you need her to. (It’s also a good way for an owner to evaluate the skill of the trainer they’ve hired. A competent trainer should be able to teach a good solid "down" to every dog they work with - no excuses.)

·        Come is the lifesaving command. It means, “turn around and get back here right now, regardless of what else you feel like doing.” The last thing that any untrained dog wants to do is “come” when distracted. There are many other exciting things to do outside, and most of them are a lot more fun than running back to the owner, even for a tasty food treat. That’s why we have a precise three-phase training methodology that makes “come when called…NOW” the only choice for a well-trained dog. The dog should do it like a reflex, without thinking. When she hears the word “come” she must stop focusing on the running squirrel, turn around and run back to the owner immediately.

·        Stay is a necessary command because it helps dogs learn self-control (and helps with all kinds of behavior problems, like rushing to the door when guests arrive, darting out through open doors, jumping up on people, etc.). 

·        Drop-it is another very important command that every well-trained dog must master in our obedience training  program. It means “immediately open your mouth and drop whatever you have.” Dogs can put all kinds of and dangerous things in their mouths, so we include drop-it as one of the five basics.

All five of the basic obedience commands are important. But since "come" is the lifesaving command, I believe that it is the most important of the big five. 

It also takes the most work. Meanwhile, dogs should never be allowed to run around off leash in an unfenced area until they have mastered it. It takes lots of practice, but it’s worth it!

(In this video, a rabbit showed up while we were
taping on a different topic. The dogs spotted the rabbit across the street behind the trainer and took off down the street after it. This is a real-life demonstration of the life-saving importance of a solid recall, or "come" command.)

Dogs & Toddlers - Can They Get Along?

Dog bites are the second most frequent cause of childhood visits to emergency rooms. The vast majority of dogs bites involving children are from dogs the child knows or lives with. And when a child less than 5 years old is the victim, the family dog is usually the attacker.  

Young children who are just beginning to walk can be quite unsettling to some dogs. From the dog's perspective, "these little people are noisy, they throw things, they fall on me or trip over me, their movements are erratic and their behavior is unpredictable."

The risk is even greater in homes with old, sick or arthritic dogs, or with under-socialized dogs who never learned to enjoy children while they were puppies.

If your dog has growled or snapped at your child, seek professional help immediately. And of course,  it's always better to prevent aggression in the first place, by following these guidelines:

- Children should be taught not to approach the dog; instead the parent can invite the dog over to the child.

- Children must NOT approach a dog who is eating. 

- When the child is eating, the dog should be crated or  resting in his gated area.

- Learn to read your dog's body language. Pay close attention and learn to notice things like  stiffening, whale eye, hard eye (staring with dilated pupils), lip curls, lip licking and  stress yawns. Your dog is always communicating through body language. Learn to read these subtle signs, and give your dog some distance from the child when you see them. Don't wait for a growl, snap or bite to occur and then try to "correct" your dog. You can't scold aggression away. Instead, try to prevent it by noticing early warning signs like the ones above.

- A child must never be allowed to approach  dog who is tied up/tethered.

- While the parents are away and a baby sitter is on duty, the dog should be crated. It's too much to expect a babysitter to watch your dog and your toddler.

- Set your home environment up for success. Provide gated areas where your dog can rest peacefully without fear of being tripped over or jumped on. 

- Keep your child away from your dog's food, toys or beds. 

- Always supervise interaction between your dog and your child, and teach appropriate boundaries to both. Never let kids and dogs play together unless you're right there in the middle of the action.

- Certain areas of the home can be highly prized by dogs. These places include:  a dog bed, under the coffee table, between the coffee table and the couch, on the couch, etc.  Use extra caution when high value places such as these are involved. If necessary, move furniture around or use gates to to prevent access.  

- Gates and crates can be a big help in creating safety zones - but never let a child reach through a gate or tease a dog who is in his crate or behind a gate.

- Never let a child play in a  dog's crate. 

- Dogs learn by association. These associations are powerful and can work for you or against you. Scolding your dog every time the toddler is around ("Get away from Junior's toys! Play nice! Put that down! FIDO NO!") teaches your dog that the child gets him into trouble. Instead, set your dog up for success by proactively arranging a safe environment. Form positive associations by using praise and play to reward good behavior when Fido and Junior are together.

Are Neutered Dogs Safer to Work with than Intact Dogs?

There are several factors that should make a trainer more cautious when working with a dog: low sociability, bite history, medical problems, maternal instinct, injuries, barrier frustration, sexually mature and finally, the topic of this post - sexually intact males. All of these justify more caution. I am always a bit more careful when working with intact males (higher drive means harder biting). But I still enjoy working with them hands-on. 

Some trainers are wary of working with intact males and will quote a study from a few years ago that showed that intact male dogs between eighteen months and two years of age have a greater incidence of aggression than females or neutered males. But it's not proven science that this is due to testosterone. It is just as likely that it's due to socioeconomic factors. Dogs who arrive at animal shelters intact are mostly from lower income communities. People who cannot afford to provide medical care certainly cannot afford professional training, and some even encourage aggressive behavior in their dogs in a misplaced effort at "protection training." 

In my almost 30 years of dog training experience, I've been bitten more often by neutered dogs than by intact dogs. I know trainers from military and police backgrounds who worked exclusively with intact males and have never been bitten.

Neutered male dogs have 3 times the risk of hypothyroidism - and there are more dogs who bite due to hypothyroidism than any other medical factor. 

Testosterone doesn’t make a dog vicious, it merely adds drive. All police patrol dogs and military dogs are intact – and attacks on their handlers are virtually unheard of.

A landmark scientific study found that only a small percentage of dogs realize a change in aggressive behavior after being neutered:   Neilson, Eckstein, and Hart,(1997) found that [only] 25% of adult dogs that were aggressive toward humans or other dogs in the household can be expected to have a 50 to 90% level of improvement after gonadectomy.  A 50 - 90% level of improvement can likewise be observed in [ONLY]  10 to 15% of dogs that are aggressive toward unfamiliar people or human territorial intruders after gonadectomy.

No trainer should get a false sense of security because a dog is neutered. And no trainer should ever recommend neutering as a solution to aggression.  (Of course, neutered males who have not yet fought are less likely to fight if they are neutered as a preventative measure.)

There is universal agreement among breeders of large breed dogs that, for a number of developmental reasons, it is inadvisable to neuter too young, and there are well known health risks involved with spaying and neutering dogs.  

Regarding females and any connection between spaying and aggression, Lindsay’s Encyclopedia of Dog Behavior and Training (Volume 2, p. 187) includes a study which supports the assertion that incidents of aggression are higher in spayed females than in non-spayed females. 

 My main point is this: No trainer should be "more relaxed" just because a dog is neutered.

Emotional Support Dogs for People with Alzheimer's

Choosing the right dog and the right trainer are two critical steps involved in the process of successfully bringing an emotional support dog into a family.

In her book  "The 24-Hour Rule: Living with Alzheimer's" Cheryl Levin-Folio writes, "Dogs offer unconditional love...comfort and a calming influence influenced by his emotional support animal training. 

The physical contact, we've discovered, is as important and effective as the emotional connection that comes with having dogs in the family. Lack of touch is devastating to anyone, particularly someone suffering with Alzheimer's."

Cheryl and her family worked with Carol Ross, CDBA,  to help  train Oliver, their English Creme Golden Retriever for his job as an emotional support dog for Cheryl's husband Michael.  In Chapter 8, Ross, a certified dog trainer and Director of Training for Canine Dimensions North Chicago region, describes some of the work she did with Oliver:

“I started working with Oliver when he was about eight weeks old. The window for socialization runs until they are about five months old. My first goal was to get Oliver up to American Kennel Club “Canine Good Citizen” standards. I wanted him to have good manners, be polite, and act appropriately wherever he went, no matter whom he was with. He had a little more training specific to being an Emotional Support Animal, so he’d stay close to Michael, literally touching him much of the time, place his head on Michael’s lap to help keep Michael calm as needed, and do things like “hold stay” for two hours so he could go on plane trips.

We were laying the groundwork for all of this starting at two months old. But the key piece when he was so young was introducing him to as many people and situations as possible. While working with me, he was exposed to at least 300 people, 60 friendly dogs, and wide range of environments, medical equipment, and behaviors. We went to all kinds of dog-friendly events, stores, schools, and parks, anything I could think of. We spent time downtown. We went to the airport.

A lot of this socialization was before we began to work on specific skills with Michael. In the early days, their job was just to form a strong bond. After that, we started the more formal “obedience” training. Like humans, dogs learn best when the process is simple. In this case, keeping it simple meant breaking the process down into smaller piece, and more repetition of each skill. Consistency is the key.

Through this process, Oliver and Michael learned the commands “Come,” “Sit,” “Down,” “Stay,” and “Drop It.” In addition, they mastered “Look” (for Oliver to make eye contact with Michael), “Touch” (for Oliver to gently touch Michael’s hand). “Enough” (Stop what you are doing!), and “Away” (give me a little space). Oliver and Baxter both learned “Go to Your Place” for when someone comes to the door who doesn’t really need a high-energy canine greeting committee.

This collection of commands covers most things that come up for most dogs and their people. Many dogs need additional training in this or that, specific to their situation and depending on their personalities, behavior and circumstances. A small dog that lives in an apartment and annoys the neighbors with barking can be taught to stop barking on command, for example.

Some dogs are trained specifically as service dogs for people with Alzheimer’s, which is mainly to help with a person who wanders or gets lost. But Oliver’s job is different – he’s for company, calming and comfort."

The Cult of Purely Positive

I am continually astonished at what passes for “dog training” these days.  This post, for example, from one of the dog trainers forums: 

“Ever since my son brought home a yellow lab puppy named Dirks, he has pulled like a freight train while walking on lead. First he tried CT (click and treat) but pulling was more rewarding than any food treat or toy. So next came a Halti then a Gentle Leader and still no dice. Even an Easy Walk harness didn't stop him. So when all else failed, and unbeknownst to me, my daughter tried a prong collar. The reward of pulling was greater than putting holes in his neck!

Let’s pause for a moment. Several things are interesting here – first, she is surprised that a dog has natural drives that trump click-and-treat, luring, and containment devices. Balanced trainers understand dogs’ natural drives and they work in harmony with them; they don’t try to shut them down, they USE them.  Second, she is unaware that trying to use a prong collar (or any tool) without first learning how to use it properly is bound to get poor results.  Third, prong collars don’t poke holes in dogs. That is a myth perpetuated by the Cult of Purely Positive. 

(back to her post…) “When I found out what was going on, it was time for some motherly intervention. I simply told my daughter to think outside of the box and to channel what Dirks loved best, and since he loved pulling just teach him when it's appropriate. And since I had all equipment along with a draft harness that I though should fit a 2+ y/o Lab, she taught him to back up (necessary skill for a cart/draft dog), get used to the rattle sound of wagon following him down a gravel driveway, plus a solid stand stay...yielding right and left can come along though turning around is relatively easy given enough room to maneuver.  Now Dirks can "pull his weight" here by pulling my Radio Flyer wagon with daily garbage down the 2/3 mile gravel driveway to the garbage cart at the road. Best of all it's *mission accomplished* with loose leash walking!”

The poor dog is now so exhausted from pulling a wagon full of crap 2/3 of a mile down a gravel driveway every day that he no longer has the strength to pull on leash.  Nice job - you’ve turned your dog into a pack mule.

But what do we do with a client who doesn’t have a wagon full of crap and a 2/3 mile gravel driveway handy? Or the client who simply doesn’t have the heart to subject her poor dog to hours of weekly slave labor?  Instead of simply using, gentle, humane, professional leash training, i.e. training the dog to walk on a leash without pulling - you use a short cut and announce that “it’s mission accomplished” by exhausting the dog instead of properly leash training him.

Call me crazy, but this doesn’t sound very “positive” to me.  If this dog belonged to  one of our clients, we would take the time to do some basic leash training and the result would be a new world opened to the dog - a dramatically improved quality of life for both the dog and his owner! They could get out into the world,  go to the town’s July 4^th parade, to the county fair, to the local big-box-pet store, to a neighbor’s home for a barbecue, to the vet’s office for a checkup, to a sidewalk café for a snack or simply enjoy a pleasant walk in the neighborhood.  All of these activities are a heck of a lot more fun than pulling a wagon full of garbage up and down a gravel road. 

Instead of teaching the dog how to walk politely on a leash, you’ve eliminated his desire to walk on a leash at all!   Take a break from your victory laps, buy Lindsay’s three volume “Handbook of Applied Dog Training and Behavior” and read about the dead dog rule[i].   

While you’re at it, read about operant conditioning and you’ll begin to understand why all working dogs (seeing eye, service, military, search and rescue, police patrol, etc.) are trained with balanced training protocols.

Sadly, if today’s purely-positive-training madness continues, it will cost many dogs their lives. Their owners, after having tried some of the inane dreck that passes for dog training today, will  conclude that their dogs are “untrainable” and give up on them.[ii]  

Purely Positive cult members – please stop using gadgets and gimmicks as substitutes for real dog training!  Herbal potions, hoods over the head (ThunderCaps) and containment devices (head halters and no-pull harnesses) are no substitute for training.  Open your minds and your hearts, and learn how to give your clients and their dogs what they really need, not just what makes you feel good.

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[i] The dead-dog rule is a complementary logic for framing the least intrusive and minimally aversive (LIMA) principle. By converting training goals into affirmative statements and identifying objectives that can be achieved only by a live dog, the resultant perspective is biased toward reward-based training efforts.   

[ii] Despite the great efforts made by animal shelters in low cost spay/neuter programs, shelter [dog] populations have continued to increase. Is it mere coincidence that the number of dogs in shelters has increased along with the spread of the purely positive movement over the past decade?