Sunday, November 29, 2015

Dog Breed Lists

Here are 154 American Kennel Club (AKC) breeds, ordered based on popularity of AKC registrations (2013 - 2015):

1. Labrador Retriever   78. Giant Schnauzer
2. Golden Retriever   79. Cardigan Welsh Corgi
3. Yorkshire terrier   80. Schipperke
4. German shepherd dog   81. Basenji
5. Beagle   82. Border Terrier
6. Dachshund   83. Irish Wolfhound
7. Boxer   84. Staffordshire Bull Terrier
8. Poodle   85. Bouvier Des Flandres
9. Shih Tzu   86. Gordon Setter
10. Miniature Schnauzer   87. Belgian Malinois
11. Chihuahuas   88. Toy Fox Terrier
12. Pug   89. Norwich Terrier
13. Bull Dog   90. Welsh Terrier
14. Pomeranian   91. Keeshond
15. Cocker Spaniel(American)   92. Great Swiss Mountain Dog
16. Rottweiler   93. Tibetan Terrier
17. Boston Terrier   94. Borzoi
18. Shetland Sheepdog (Sheltie)   95. Afghan Hound
19. Maltese   96. Norwegian Elkhound
20. German Shorthaired Pointer   97. English Setter
21. Doberman Pinscher   98. Flat Coated Retriever
22. Miniature Pinscher   99. Standard Schnauzer
23. Pembroke Welsh Corgi   100. Belgian Tervuren
24. Great Dane   101. Bearded Collie
25. Siberian Husky   102. Tibetan Spaniel
26. Bichon Frise   103. Fox Terrier – Smooth
27. Basset Hound   104. Manchester Terrier (Standard & Toy)
28. English Springer Spaniel   105. Kerry Blue Terrier
29. Weimaraner   106. Plott Hound
30. Brittany   107. Australian Terrier
31. Cavalier King Charles Spaniel   108. American Eskimo
32. West Highland White Terrier   109. Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
33. Mastiff   110. Pointer
34. Australian Shepherd   111. Belgian Sheepdog
35. Papillion   112. Norfolk Terrier
36. Collie (Rough) & (Smooth)   113. Nova Scotia Duck Tolling Retriever
37. Saint Bernard   114. Anatolian Sheepdog
38. French Bulldog   115. Spinone Italiano
39. Lhasa Apso   116. Neopolitan Mastiff
40. Scottish Terrier   117. Irish Terrier
41. Cairn Terrier   118. Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen
42. Bullmastiff   119. Saluki
43. Havanese   120. Bedlington Terrier
44. Vizsla   121. Briard
45. Chinese Shar Pei   122. Clumber Spaniel
46. Newfoundland   123. English Toy Spaniel
47. Bernese Mountain Dog   124. Welsh Springer Spaniel
48. Pekingese   125. Affenpinscher
49. Chesapeake Bay Retriever   126. Miniature Bull Terrier
50. Bloodhound   127. Scottish Deerhound
51. Akita   128. American Water Spaniel
52. Airdale Terrier   129.  Lakeland Terrier
53. Chinese Crested   130.  Curly Coated Retriever
54. Rhodesian Ridgeback   131.  Black And Tan Coonhound
55. Border Collie   132.  Puli
56. Italian Greyhound   133.  Ibizan Hound
57. Great Pyrenees   134.  Greyhound
58. Alaskan Malamute   135.  Field Spaniel
59. Soft-Coated Wheaten Terrier   136.  Irish Water Spaniel
60. Brussels Griffon   137. Kuvasz
61. Whippet   138.  Polish Lowland Sheepdog
62. Bull Terrier   139.  Lowchen (Little Lion Dog)
63. American Staffordshire Terrier   140.  Pharaoh Hound
64. Chow Chow   141.  Black Russian Terrier
65. Silky Terrier   142.  German Pinscher
66. Shiba Inu   143.  Sussex Spaniel
67. Irish Setter   144.  Skye Terrier
68. Japanese Chin   145.  Komondor
69. Old English Sheepdog (Bobtail)   146.  Sealyham Terrier
70. Australian Cattle Dog   147.  Canaan Dog
71. Portuguese Water Dogs   148.  Finnish Spitz
72. Parson Russell Terrier   149.  Dandie Dinmont Terrier
73. German Wirehaired Pointer   150.  Glen Imaal Terrier
74. Cocker Spaniel (English)   151.  American Foxhound
75. Samoyed   152.  Otter Hound
76. Fox Terrier – Wirehair   153.  Harrier
77. Dalmatian   154.  English Foxhound    


Here is a list of dog breeds ranked by working/obedience intelligence (i.e. the number of repetitions required for the dog to understand a new command), based on surveys of professional dog trainers. Breeds ranked in the top 10 may learn new commands in as few as 10 repetitions, while breeds in the bottom 10 may require up to 100 repetitions or more to learn a new command.

 1.  Border Collie    43.  Saluki
 2.  Poodle      Finnish Spitz
 3.  German Shepherd      Pointer
 4.  Golden Retriever    44.  Cavalier King Charles Spaniel
 5.  Doberman Pinscher      German Wirehaired Pointer
 6.  Shetland Sheepdog      Black & Tan Coonhound
 7.  Labrador Retriever      American Water Spaniel
 8.  Papillon    45.  Siberian Husky
 9.  Rottweiler      Bichon Frise
 10.  Australian Cattle Dog      English Toy Spaniel
 11.  Pembroke Welsh Corgi    46.  Tibetan Spaniel
 12.  Miniature Schnauzer      English Foxhound
 13.  English Springer Spaniel      Otterhound
 14.  Belgian Tervuren     American Foxhound
 15.  Schipperke      Greyhound
   Belgian Sheepdog      Wirehaired Pointing Griffon
 16.  Collie    47.  West Highland White Terrier
   Keeshond      Scottish Deerhound
 17.  German Shorthaired Pointer    48.  Boxer
 18.  Flat-Coated Retriever      Great Dane
   English Cocker Spaniel    49.  Dachshund
   Standard Schnauzer      Stafforshire Bull Terrier
 19.  Brittany    50.  Alaskan Malamute
 20.  Cocker Spaniel    51.  Whippet
 21. Weimaraner      Chinese Shar-pei
 22.  Belgian Malinois      Wire Fox Terrier
   Bernese Mountain Dog    52.  Rhodesian Ridgeback
 23.  Pomeranian    53.  Ibizan Hound
 24.  Irish Water Spaniel      Welsh Terrier
 25.  Vizsla      Irish Terrier
 26.  Cardigan Welsh Corgi    54.  Boston Terrier
 27.  Chesapeake Bay Retriever      Akita
   Puli    55.  Skye Terrier
   Yorkshire Terrier    56.  Norfolk Terrier
 28.  Giant Schnauzer      Sealyham Terrier
 29.  Airedale Terrier    57.  Pug
   Bouvier Des Flandres    58.  French Bulldog
 30.  Border Terrier    59.  Brussels Griffon
   Briard      Maltese
 31.  Welsh Springer Spaniel    60.  Italian Greyhound
 32.  Manchester Terrier    61.  Chinese Crested
 33.  Samoyed    62.  Dandie Dinmont Terrier
 34.  Field Spaniel      Petit Basset Griffon
   Newfoundland      Vendeen
   Australian Terrier      Tibetan Terrier
   American Staffordshire Terrier      Japanese Chin
   Gordon Setter      Lakeland Terrier
   Bearded Collie    63.  Old English Sheepdog
 35.  Cairn Terrier    64.  Great Pyrenees
   Kerry Blue Terrier    65.  Scottish Terrier
   Irish Setter      Saint Bernard
 36.  Norwegian Elkhound

Can Dogs and Cats Live Peacefully Together?

Can dogs and cats live together in peace? Absolutely! But can any dog and any cat be reliably trained to get along perfectly with one another? Probably not.

One of the most frequent questions we hear is, “How can I train my dog to get along with my cat?”  Things get complicated when dog trainers try to answer that question.

First the trainer must start with another question: “What is your dog doing now when he sees the cat?” If your dog is aggressively chasing, fixating, growling, snapping or snarling at your cat – it’s safety first – you must manage the environment to keep your pets safe. Odds are that they probably will not be best friends any time soon.

But if your dog is simply trying to play with your cat, and if your cat grew up with dogs - then there’s hope.

Let’s take a moment to examine why dogs and cats "getting along" can sometimes be problematic. It's all about communication. Most dogs and cats who have grown up with each other will learn to get along fine. But dogs and cats who meet later in life will need lots of time to learn to communicate with each other. This is no easy task, because dogs and cats communicate through body language and the body language of  a cat is not the same as the body language of a dog.

For example, a “play bow” (chest down, butt up) means “let’s play” when displayed by a dog. But the exact same behavior  means “go away” when done by a cat.  Another example - a high tail displayed by a cat often means “I’m interested” while a high tail displayed by a dog usually means “I’m on guard.” 

Think of it this way: if you meet a person from France who speaks no English, and you speak no French, it’s going to take quite a while before the two of you can communicate. It’s the same with dogs and cats who were not introduced to one another at an early age. They will have trouble communicating.  This becomes even more difficult if the cat runs every time she sees the dog, especially if the dog is high drive and/or bred to be highly attuned to movement (e.g. terriers, sight hounds etc.)

The bottom line is this: some dogs will get along with some cats. Only time will tell. In the meantime, it’s up to you to keep them safely separated.  Cats and dogs can be seriously injured when they fight. This is NOT something that a responsible owner will  “just let them work out on their own.”

Bottom line: this is more of a management issue than a training issue - manage the environment to keep your pets safe. 

Tips for Fostering or Adopting a Shy or Fearful Dog

If you’re thinking about fostering or adopting a shy, fearful dog you are about to embark upon one of the most rewarding experiences of your life. Shy and fearful dogs need lots of help to build confidence and learn to live a happy life. There are no quick fixes - progress will be made slowly, over time.

Lots of thought should be given to the special needs very shy dogs have before you make the decision to take one home with you.  Shy and fearful dogs tend to react out of context to common household occurrences. For example if a door slams, a confident dog will be startled for a moment but will quickly recover from the experience. In contrast, a fearful dog may submissively urinate then run and hide under the bed for the next hour. Or he may turn and snap at the person standing closest to him.


A visit the vet to rule out medical factors which might be contributing to the behavior is a good place to start.

Next, build confidence by establishing a close relationship and by providing a calm, orderly and predictable environment.  A few ideas that may help:
  • Provide a kennel crate for your dog. Have the dog use the kennel crate for naps while you are home, for sleeping overnight, and whenever you are not home. This will help build confidence because the crate is a place of safety and security for the dog. It will also help prevent destructive behavior and housebreaking accidents.
  • For the first few days with any dog who is new to your home, it’s a good idea to keep the dog on a leash inside the home. Keep the dog tethered to you and have him follow you from room to room as you go about your daily routine. This is especially helpful with a shy or fearful dog. It has a comforting effect, helps build trust and shows the dog that you are his leader and his protector.
  • Do not let the dog run loose in the back yard during the first few days. Fearful dogs may be hesitant to return back inside the home before they have settled in. Instead, walk the dog on a leash, even if your back yard is fenced, until the dog feels “at home” in his new surroundings.
  • Take the dog for at least 2 daily walks for exercise. Daily walks help strengthen the bond between dog and owner.
  • Play with your dog every day! Play is a natural behavior – dogs need to play in order to build confidence.
  • Sudden or fast movements, shouting, children racing through rooms etc. should be avoided.
  • Instruct guests to completely ignore the dog until he approaches them. If the dog approaches them, they can reach out and scratch the dog under the chin or on the chest.  Avoid eye contact and frontal alignment at first. DO NOT PAT the dog on the head. DO NOT hug the dog around the neck or head.
  • If the dog is afraid of something or someone, do not force the dog to approach. Instead, provide distance and redirect the dog’s attention.
  • Provide a daily routine including daily obedience training.  
  • NO physical punishment. Tactics such as rolling a dog on its back, hitting a dog or pinning a dog down only serve to frighten them. These tactics can quickly break down the bond between a dog and its owner.
  • Never take a dog back to a housebreaking accident and put his nose in the mess. The dog will have no idea why you are doing this and it will hurt, not help, your housetraining efforts.  Instead, prevent accidents from happening in the first place, by using a dog crate, providing constant supervision and taking the dog outside for frequent potty breaks.
Dogs with serious fear issues will benefit greatly from professional assistance and training. Canine Dimensions can design a program to help your dog gain confidence and live a happier life. Call us at 1-888-281-3647 for more information.

Thursday, November 26, 2015

The Dangers of "Purely Positive" Dog Training

One of Canada's top dog trainers is Roger Hild. He is a founding member of the CAPPDT (Canada's largest dog trainers' association) . Hild has trained thousands of dogs over the past 20+ years. The following post, which appeared on his blog a few years ago, is reposted here with his permission:   

 

Plan B - Kill the Dog

 The needle slid easily into the vein and its lethal contents were injected slowly. The final good-byes had been said and now, as tears streamed down his face, the owner reflected on what went wrong as he watched his dog die. He thought about how hard he’d tried - he had sought out the best trainer he could find and when the behaviour didn’t improve, he had sought out another. No one, it seemed, either could or would offer him a solution to solve the behaviour problem which ultimately had proven terminal.

If the above paragraph seems overly dramatic, I can assure you it is exactly how many dog and owner relationships end. What’s really sad, in my opinion, is that many such endings are needless and can be rightfully attributed to a philosophy that ironically calls itself "dog-friendly." The philosophy I’m speaking of is also known as "PP" (purely positive) and is based entirely on facilitating behavioral change by awarding or withholding positive reinforcement. Sometimes also referred to as PROC (Positive Reinforcement Operant Conditioning), in some areas of the country its trainers have become so numerous they are all the public can access.

The problem I have with the pure positive philosophy is that it lacks balance. Pure positive trainers don’t use corrections, claiming any aversive punishment is unnecessary. Many among their ranks refer to anyone who uses corrections or punishment as cruel and their equipment and methods as abusive. Having a real problem with the word "no," or any other word with a similar meaning, their pursuit of getting such words out of the trainers vocabulary has an almost fetish like quality. Both in their dealings with the public and their dealings with other trainers, who subscribe to more balance in their approach, I find many of its practitioners to be arrogant, zealous and dishonest.

I want to make it clear that my remarks are directed primarily at the evangelical promoters and the zealous fanatics within this movement; I do not, however, want to paint all trainers that follow such a philosophy with the same brush. Narrow-minded people occupy every ideology as do zealots. Within the dog training community there are some trainers who have developed very good skills with a positive approach and they freely admit they use this approach because it is their own preference. They concede there are other methods that at times might need to be used and if they aren’t in a position to use these alternatives, they will refer the client to someone who can. They do not use inflammatory and derogatory terms to label colleagues who have chosen different techniques. I have no problem with these trainers rather I hold them in high regard - they state their choice and are not attempting to limit others right to choose. While they may remain unconvinced another approach might work better, they will not try to eliminate it from the realm of possibilities and choices. The honest among them will acknowledge that just as they were free to operate from choice, so should others be free to choose.

There is nothing offered by PROC methods which is not also available in a more balanced approach. In addition to the tools and approaches used by the purely positive trainers, balanced trainers add the use of whatever corrections are necessary to make the point completely clear to the dog. Corrections are simply information to offer clarity about what is wrong, what the consequence is and what needs to be done to get it right. The PROC trainer, therefore, offers far less than the balanced trainer - less information to the dog and fewer options to the owner. Other than time-outs, "ignore him when he’s bad," controlling all ‘resources’ and withholding all rewards, there is a real poverty of effective consequences. If those don’t work, they will often label the dog as not trainable and, rather than try using effective corrections, the lethal injection is often all they are prepared to offer. There should be far more information (in terms of behaviour changing consequences) provided to the dog before that final and drastic step is taken.

Much about the PP movement is dishonest. Some of the more common claims, made by pure positive practitioners, are that their method is "the most effective, reliable and humane method for training the dog." Such claims are frequently attached to statements that, "punishment-based methods don’t work." Many among them consider a punishment-based trainer as anyone who uses any kind of physical correction and they classify any method, that includes corrections, as dangerous and "far too risky."

Contrary to their claims, a PROC training approach is not as effective and takes considerably longer to reach any level of reliability even close to what a balanced approach can produce. In some instances, reliability cannot be realized using a positive only approach and some dogs will not be trainable at all until appropriate corrections are included. When this lack of reliability, and the increased time PP training takes is raised with PROC trainers, a common response is that they are willing to take longer because their approach is humane. Several things about this attitude bother me: IT’S YOUR MONEY AND TIME THEY ARE WORKING WITH - THE LONGER THEY TAKE THE MORE IT COSTS YOU, their suggestion that PP is more humane is false and this assertion is paramount to emotional blackmail. Balanced training is about 15% more effective, is considerably more efficient with faster results and has a far better track record for producing the changes necessary to allow the dog to remain in his home.

The statistics I cited above are from a lecture given to a Toronto audience in the early 1990's by Dr. Ian Dunbar. (I refer to Dr. Dunbar because these days he is so highly regarded by many in the PP movement who view him as the vanguard of the "dog-friendly" training concept.) He stated that the most effective training occurs when positive rewards are combined with positive punishment (i.e., praise/reward combined with correction/punishment). He said that under controlled testing for reliability, when positive only methods were used the reliability factor could be brought no higher than the low to mid 80% range (ranged between 83 – 85%). He went on to say when appropriately timed punishments were added, the reliability increased by 12-14% to a maximum of 97%. He said that no one was able to observe a 100% reliable response, i.e., perfect on all aspects of the tests under a wide range of varying circumstances.

That 12-14% differential means a balanced approach can clearly help more dogs and is more effective. It means some dogs destined to die could be saved. However, in discussions looking at the relative effectiveness of a balanced approach vs. a PROC approach, a far more disturbing attitude sometimes emerges. When confronted with the suggestion that using a correction would successfully modify the potentially lethal behavior (which had not responded favorably to a PP approach), their rallying cry became, "The dog would rather be dead than corrected."

The crux of the problem is their presumption that they know something that escapes the rest of us.

Because they are adamant that aversive corrections are not necessary and since they are committed to that ideology, they would rather kill the dog than correct it. They would rather kill a few dogs than review and possibly change some of their beliefs. Since they hold the arrogant belief that they are kinder, more humane, enlightened and "dog friendly" than those who would correct, they are confident in believing they can speak for dogs. Whatever they want is what the dog wants! Keep in mind, THIS IS YOUR DOG THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT - their philosophy fails and your dog dies.

In my mind’s eye I can picture the dog (from the opening paragraph) on the table frantically struggling to live. As the death juice spreads through his body, as the dog’s vision goes to black, I can imagine his last thoughts as being, "Why this? What did I do wrong? Why didn’t somebody stop me?"

(If you're interested in learning more, check out this clip from a recent radio program which featured a debate between a balanced trainer and two purely positive trainers.)  

Tuesday, November 24, 2015

How to Make Your Newly Adopted Dog Feel at Home

 

Congratulations! You've found the perfect dog and brought him home! Now what?!


The first step is to build a strong bond by establishing leadership through: routines, rules, consistent schedules and control of resources.

Dogs are social animals, continually attempting to define their place within the family. They recognize leadership in their human family when their owners control resources and practice obedience training daily. Contrary to what some people think, establishing leadership has nothing to do with “dominance.” The owner should be in charge, but should not confuse leadership with bullying. Owners should NEVER hit the dog, hold the dog down or turn him over on his back.


Instead, show calm leadership by following two basic rules:
  • Ignore rude demands for attention.
  • Nothing in life is free. He must do something for you before you do something for him (e.g., “Want a treat? Sit.”  “Want your ball? Sit.”  “Want to go out? Sit.”  “Want to eat dinner? Sit” etc.)
Remember, when bringing a dog home from the shelter, in your dog’s mind he has just been separated from the pack. Sometimes he will have a name that is accustomed to hearing while in other cases he will not.  When he first arrives at home he needs to spend the next few days to settle in.

During this critical introductory period, be patient and kind but DO NOT lavish the dog with praise and attention. An attitude by the owners of  "kind but firm"   is very comforting and calming to a new dog.

Except for a visit to the vet, don’t take him anywhere during the first week. Instead, let him take some time to settle in and learn that this is his new home.

Do not invite friends and neighbors over during the first week. Give your dog some time to get to know his new family first.

For the first few days keep him on a 6 foot leash, held in your hand, both inside and outside the home. This will help him bond with you and will aid in the housebreaking process.

Keep a sharp eye on him in the house to help prevent housebreaking accidents. Correct him with a verbal “NO” only if you catch him in the act of house soiling. Never take him back to the spot of an accident and scold him.

Do not place paper or pads on the floor for elimination. Instead, take the dog out every hour for a 5 minute potty break and praise him when he goes to the bathroom outside.

Consider the use of a kennel crate to aid in the housebreaking process and to prevent destructive behavior when you’re not home – these are fairly common problems, especially for young dogs.

Most dogs settle in nicely in a week or two, but if you need more help, or when you're ready to begin obedience training, give us a call at 1-888-281-DOGS.

How to Find the Perfect Dog for Your Family at the Local Animal Shelter

There are about 5000 animal shelters in the United States. About 5 million dogs enter these shelters each year, and more than half must be euthanized. A surprisingly small percentage of dogs who enter these shelters - only about 15% - are returned to their owners. Some shelters have policies which restrict the killing of dogs for non-medical reasons, but most of these “No-Kill” shelters must frequently turn dogs away because of overcrowding.

Some dogs are in animal shelters because their owners were no longer able to care for them. Others are there for behavioral reasons such as fear, aggression or housebreaking.

Canine Dimensions dog trainers work with shelters throughout the country to help establish training programs for dogs, help conduct temperament evaluations, and provide safety  training for staff and volunteers. 

We have also assisted Canine CellMates in Atlanta, GA with the evaluation of dogs entering their program. Canine Cellmates is a program that operates out of Fulton County Jail in Atlanta, Georgia. Their mission is to help rehabilitate inmates at Fulton County Jail and homeless dogs from Fulton County Animal Services through a Good Behavior Incentive program. They give inmates a productive new sense of hope and newly trained skills to care for and train shelter dogs, while giving the dogs the skills they need in order to become adopted into loving and caring homes.

Most dogs become available for adoption, while others go on to train as service dogs and some are placed in the homes of veterans who need a companion.  The inmates learn responsibility in caring for a dog, accountability in working towards a goal and experience the unconditional love and positive physical contact that caring for a dog provides.

The incidence of violence in prisons and jails where these types of programs are in place has shown a marked decrease, sometimes as much as 50%. Recidivism rates have also shown dramatic improvements.

Canine Dimensions certified dog trainer Amanda Striker conducted hundreds of temperament evaluations for dogs who entered the program. To get a group of about 10 dogs she had to test between 40 and 50 dogs for issues such as fear, aggression and resource guarding. Careful selection of the right dogs for this program helped insure its incredible success.

There are simple and very effective methods that YOU can use to select the dog that’s right for your family.  Remember, your goal is not to find the perfect dog - but rather the dog that's perfect for you. Let's get started!

Going to the animal shelter can be a heart wrenching experience when you see how many wagging tails are just looking for a good home. If you have decided to adopt a pet dog from a local rescue organization or animal shelter, you are about to save a life! Many people feel that shelter dogs make the best pets. Some of the best dog and owner relationships that we have seen,  first started in a local shelter.

But there’s also the other side of the coin – people sometimes go to the shelter and pick a dog that's a bit too much for them to handle, or one that is not the best match for their lifestyle.
  
 Choosing a dog that’s right for your family is no simple task. You are likely to be overwhelmed by the large number of dogs you will encounter. In fact, without a plan, the odds are against finding one who is a really good match. With so many dogs to choose from, it makes a lot of sense to take a logical approach rather than an emotional one.


Picture the PERFECT dog for your family. Before even thinking about going to the shelter,  do the following - gather everyone together and ask each family member to name the characteristics that make up the perfect dog. Maybe everyone will agree and this will be an easy exercise, but if your family is anything like mine there will be a wide variety of opinions on this subject. In general the most likely answer will be that the perfect dog for your family is a playful but quiet, shaggy but short haired, big but small, male but female, young but not too young, older but not too old lovable dog. This would be a dog your daughter can jog with who also enjoys sitting by the fire with your wife. A calm dog who enjoys playing fetch with your son who also happens to be very smart,    but not smart enough to figure out how to open up the trash can.

Try to picture the perfect dog but make a list according to your priorities. You’re probably going to have to compromise on a few things, but starting out by identifying what the perfect dog looks like to your family is a valuable exercise, well worth the time.

Once you've done this and you are ready to start visiting your local shelters, be sure to avoid these common mistakes: 
    Mistake #1: Choosing a Dog With Your Heart (Instead of Your Head)
    Don’t adopt on impulse. Follow a plan. Do not make this important decision based solely on emotion.

    Mistake #2: “Rescuing” the Fearful, Trembling Dog in the Corner
    While a certain amount of fear is common in new arrivals to a shelter, a dog with chronic fear (we’ll teach you how to tell the difference below) is a poor match for anyone but an experienced owner, and often requires the help of an in-home trainer.  Don’t take on a “Project Dog” unless you have the time, money, patience and a commitment for training.

    Mistake #3: Not Paying Attention to Advice from the Shelter Staff
    The shelter staff can often provide quite a bit of valuable information about the dogs under their care. In essence, the shelter staff is acting as the “foster parents” of the dogs there at that time. Before getting into specifics about any particular dog, it's always a good idea to get to know them a little bit first by asking them questions in a friendly and curious manner about how long they have been there and how they came to work at the shelter. Also, remember people that generally like to talk about themselves and also love to give advice. If you encourage them to tell their story and also put in their two cents by allowing them to give their opinion, they can be a source of invaluable information. Asking questions is a great place to start. Engage them in conversation by asking specific questions, and listening carefully to the answers. Many of these people are volunteers who are dedicated to helping people and pets. Take advantage of their knowledge and expertise. Specific questions like, “We have a lot of little kids running in and out of the house all day. Which dogs here would be OK with that?” Try to get specific answers. Those that really bond with certain dogs and want them to get adopted will tell you a lot about the dog if given a chance to give their opinion and advice.
    Many shelters and animal adoption centers utilize standardized screening protocols like the ASPCA’s “Meet Your Match” (MYM) tests. Shelter staff uses MYM to assess a number of factors in pet dogs. Things like food aggression, separation anxiety can be identified when the tests are done right. Those multicolored cards used as part of the MYM tests (usually posted in front of each kennel) can give you valuable clues about the dogs in their care. MYM cards say things like “I’m a Goofball” or “I’m a Couch Potato” or “I’m a Teacher’s Pet” and more. These cards represent the results of evaluations that have been done by shelter staff according to ASPCA testing standards.

    Be sure to take advantage of the dedication and skill that shelter employees and volunteers possess. But a word of caution, be careful not to make the next mistake on our list:

    Mistake #4: Listening Too Much to Shelter Staff
    Ultimately, the decision to add a particular dog to your family is a decision that only you can make. Take good counsel from shelter staff but don’t delegate your decision to anyone else.

    Mistake #5: Forgetting to Ask the Most Important Question
    Selecting a dog is like any other decision. You start with a big list of choices and you narrow it down to a select few. In dog selection, the single most important factor in separating the wheat from the chaff is this: sociability. Measuring sociability is done by determining the dog's desire to seek out the company of others and seeing how friendly and pleasant the dog is.

    Every now and then one of our dog trainers will visit a client who has adopted a profoundly insecure, or unsociable, or sometimes even a downright nasty dog. When we ask them whether they received any input from shelter workers before deciding to take Cujo home with them, we usually get the same answer, “I didn’t ask.”

    It’s YOUR JOB to ask the right questions. Be sure to ask this one: “Who are the most outgoing, easygoing, friendly dogs that are here?”  Put these dogs on your short list.

    Here is a quick test you can do as you meet a few possible adoption candidate dogs:

 Caution - any dog, even the "friendliest" looking dog, can bite - do the following tests at your own risk. If at any point in the test you observe threatening or aggressive behavior, end the test and move on to the next dog.


The more dogs you evaluate the better you will become at reading their behavior.
You will need to bring a tennis ball, a tug rope and some high-value food treats (e.g. hot dogs, liver treats, etc.). Don’t let the dog see or smell any of these items until it’s time.

A) Approach The Kennel.  

3 Points: The dog shows a friendly interest in you. He moves to the front of the cage. Open mouth, happy expression and a nice, low, sweeping wag of the tail, are all good signs. Jumping up on the cage door in a friendly way is another sign of sociability.
2 Points: A high “flag” with the tail, with short fast movement, means the dog is a little too stimulated by your arrival and is possibly warning you to back off.
1 Point: The dog completely ignores you.
0 Points: The dog cowers and moves away, showing fear; or
the dog lunges at the cage door, barks and/or snarls angrily, growls, or freezes up stiffly displaying the whites of his eyes.

B) Ask the kennel worker to bring the dog to the screening area. (Shelters usually have a room or an outside area specifically set aside for these meetings.) Once inside this private screening area, stand about 4 feet from the dog, facing in his direction but not looking directly at him. DO NOT MAKE EYE CONTACT WITH THE DOG AND DO NOT TALK TO THE DOG. Wait 30 seconds. During these 30 seconds watch for the following: 

3 Points: The dog makes gentle physical contact with you. A sniff, a gentle rub or nudge to get your attention.
2 Points: The dog jumps up on you in a friendly way.
1 Point:    The dog ignores you.
0 Points:   The dog hides behind the kennel worker, or barks angrily at you, or makes "rude" physical contact with you (e.g. a hard nose bump, jumps up and mouths you, etc..)

If the dog scores a “0” on any of the following items, end the test immediately.

 C) After the 30 seconds have elapsed, stand directly in front of the dog, bend over slightly and make direct eye contact with the dog, saying nothing.

3 Points: A visibly friendly reaction such as a low tail wag, or a  move in order to get closer to you or a play bow (front end on floor, rear end in the air).
2 Points: Dog looks away.
1 Point:   Dog stares back at you, or barks at you.
0 Points: Angry or fearful reaction, e.g. tail tucked, or a high-held “flagging” tail, or a growl.


D) Pet the dog 3 times - from his neck to his tail - long, slow strokes. Pause exactly 2 seconds between each stroke.

3 Points: Dog moves closer to you or leans up against you between strokes.
2 Points: Dog ignores the petting but stays in place.
1 Point:   Dog gets excited, tail wags fast, jumps up to demand more attention.
0 Points: Dog stiffens and/or growls and/or moves away between strokes.

E) Crouch down and pet the dog again, while talking softly to the dog. 

3 Points: Dog moves closer to you, tail wags.
2 Points: Dog ignores the hug but stays in place.
1 Point:   Dog gets excited, tail wags fast, and/or jumps up to demand more attention.
0 Points: Dog stiffens and/or growls and/or moves away.

F)    Handle the dog’s front paws, gently but firmly, for about 5 seconds each. 

3 Points: The dog tolerates this.
0 Points: Stiffening, hackling, growling, barking, mouthing, snapping, excessive startling or fear.
Assuming he has made it this far without showing aggression or excessive nervousness or fear, your candidate dog is now ready to tell you little bit more about himself. That brings us to the final test items:

G) Evaluate the dog’s play drive, prey drive and food drive. 

Speak in a pleasant, high pitched voice and move around a bit as you produce the tennis ball. Toss it past him and see if he chases it. Does he ignore it? Does he get it and run away, or bring it back to you? Next, take out the tug rope and “tease” him a bit. See if he will play tug with you.   Your goal is to see if his drives match your wish list in terms of activity level. A dog that is “ball crazy” is probably going to enjoy chasing critters in the back yard (prey drive).
A dog that will play tug with a total stranger (you) has pretty good play drive, so he may not be a couch potato if that’s what you’re looking for.
Finally, present a high value food treat such as a piece of hot dog, and ask the dog to sit. If he won’t take the treat he may have been be a bit more stressed by the preceding test items than you had thought. If his interest in you intensifies after he takes the treat, that’s good news - a dog who is very food motivated will be easier to train using positive rewards.
Total possible points = 3 (Score 1 point each for the “right” reaction, i.e. one that matches your desired activity level, on the ball and tug test. Score 1 point if he takes the food treat.)
Now, total all points scored!

Scoring Guide:

18 to 21 Points Excellent
14 to 17 Points Good
9 to 13 Points Fair
Below 9 Poor
Regardless of the above total, the dog has not passed the test if:
  • The dog showed extreme fear (trembling, shaking, hiding, avoiding contact) at any point; OR
  • The dog behaved aggressively (growling, snarling, snapping, or prolonged stiffening) at any point; OR
  • The dog showed little or no sociability (friendliness) during the test. This is an extremely important point. It might take a little while for some dogs to “warm up” but the dog must show some sociability by the end of the test. Look for an overall attitude of friendliness on the part of the dog. There should be a noticeable desire to connect with you. This is an extremely important characteristic. If the dog scored well numerically, but you’re not convinced that he showed sufficient sociability, come back in a day or so and re-test the dog from start to finish. 
This may seem like a lot of work, but in the end you are deciding on adding a new member to your family. In my next post I'll discuss what to do when you get your new dog home.



Saturday, November 14, 2015

Debunking the Dominance Myth

 


One of the most misunderstood topics in dog training is the subject of dominance.

Dominance is often cited by owners as the cause for many common dog behavior problems. Owners sometimes say things about their dogs such as "he's very dominant" or "he's trying to be Alpha." Occasionally a dog's undesirable behavior is related to dominance, but more often the underlying cause is simply lack of proper training. For example, a dog who pulls on the leash might be trying to lead the walk, or he might simply be pulling ahead because his natural pace is faster than his owner's natural pace and he has never been trained to walk politely by his owner's side.

We're not saying that there's no such thing as dominance in dogs, but it is important to separate fact from fiction. The word "dominance," when applied to dog behavior, basically refers to a desire to control resources. Resources can include food, attention, treats, toys and even simple things like access to the back yard. A confident dog who seeks to control resources can rightly be called "dominant" but that trait in and of itself is not necessarily a bad thing to have in a dog, as long as the dog is not permitted to control important resources. For example, dogs should never be permitted to demand food, play, treats, toys or attention. If you own a dominant dog, obedience training is a must.

Dominant dogs are confident dogs. Maybe that's why many professional dog trainers, when choosing a puppy for their own families, will try to select a more dominant puppy from the litter. Dominant dogs, when raised properly, are outgoing, confident, and eager to experience life. Given a choice between owning a dominant dog or a fearful dog, most professional dog trainers will choose the dominant dog every time. They know that it is very difficult to rehabilitate a timid, fearful dog. A fearful dog has trouble stepping out into the world and enjoying life. In contrast, a confident, fearless dog is adventuresome and eager to try new things.

Owning a truly dominant dog however, carries with it the responsibility of teaching the dog that the owner, not the dog, controls access to all the "good things in life" that a dog wants and needs. The old saying "nothing in life is free" must be learned by dogs in order for them to become polite, well-mannered pets.

Dominant dogs tend to behave rudely until they are properly trained. Our in-home dog training program focuses on teaching all of the basic obedience commands to the dog, and it also includes lots of advice for owners on how they can send the right messages of positive leadership to their dogs. Leadership is achieved by good training and by controlling resources – not by pain or punishment.

Another common misconception is that all aggressive dogs are dominant. Some people confuse the term "dominant dog" with "aggressive dog." Not all dominant dogs are aggressive, nor are all aggressive dogs dominant. However there is such a thing as "dominance aggression." This is aggression in a dog (e.g. growling, snapping and biting) that is related to the dog's dominant personality. Dominance aggression is only one form of aggression among dozens that exist, and it is certainly not the primary form of aggression. Canine Dimensions has excellent training protocols for dealing with all forms of dog aggression, including dominance aggression.

So remember:
  • Dominance is not the cause of every dog behavior problem.
  • Dominant doesn't mean aggressive. Dominant dogs are not always aggressive dogs, and aggressive dogs are not always dominant.
  • There is much disagreement among experts as to the exact definition of dominance in dogs, but a good basic definition is: a dominant dog is a confident dog that seeks to control resources.

The Importance of Exercise for Your Dog

 


Cheryl’s voice trembled with frustration as she described Luther’s latest antics, “We have to put him in the crate whenever people come over. He’s just out of control. Nipping for attention, jumping up on people. He runs around the house like – an animal!”
 
Luther is an 11 month old male German Shepherd. A big, friendly boy, his 85 pounds of boundless energy was beginning to overwhelm the entire family.   
 
Most dogs don’t get enough exercise. But when your dog is a young, high drive dog like Luther, lack of sufficient exercise, play and mental stimulation is a recipe for all kinds of behavior problems.
People come up with lots of reasons why their dogs don’t get the exercise they need:
  
“I can’t take him for walks – he pulls on the leash.” A good obedience trainer can teach your dog to walk nicely on the leash in a very short period of time, without complicated, expensive equipment.
 
“I can’t take him to dog parks because he is dog-aggressive.”  Dog parks are not appropriate for every dog. But luckily, the dog park is not the only way to exercise your dog. Fetch, jogging, long walks in the park or around town, swimming, taking your dog to work and playing games like tug-of-war are all great sources of exercise, play and mental stimulation.
 
 “But we have a big back yard.”  Dogs need to play with you. They should not be left alone to exercise themselves. Too much time alone in the yard will not solve behavior problems. In fact, it will often lead to more behavior problems like excessive barking, digging, chasing critters, fence fighting and eating foreign objects. It may actually increase, rather than decrease, a dog’s level of frustration.  An active, involved owner with a small back yard is a lot more fun for a dog than a detached, aloof owner who banishes the dog to “go play” in a big back yard.
 
“We were thinking about getting another dog to keep him company.” Okay, so now you have 2 bored dogs instead of one? Not a great plan. There is no substitute for human attention, love, guidance and companionship.  
 
Exercise is extremely important, but it’s not a “magic pill” that will solve all behavior problems. Don’t assume that the solution for all bad behavior to simply wear your dog out.  A total solution involves exercise and interactive play along with good obedience training and proper pack structure and communication.

Dog Food Facts

 


Because of the recent problem with contaminated dog foods, many of our clients have asked us to recommend a safe, healthy food for their pets.

We don't recommend ANY of the dog foods you can buy in stores.

The commercial dog foods that are available in stores contain fillers, by-products and chemical preservatives. They need to be transported and stored over long periods of time. In some cases a shipment can spend months waiting in storage or on a truck before it ever gets to the store. And then it will spend even more time on the store shelves. So they all contain chemical preservatives.

Also, dog food companies use things like wheat and soy to increase the protein percentage that you read on the bag, but  these fillers are not digestable. So you think you're getting a nourishing food because the bag indicates a high protein percentage, but they are not digestible proteins so it just becomes more for you to clean up in the yard.

And the "by-products" they are legally allowed to put in commercial dog food -  "beef digest" (guts), "chicken by-products" (beaks, feet) -YECH!

That's why we do not recommend ANY of the dog foods you can buy in stores.

The only commercial dog food we recommend is Dr. Jane Bicks' "Life's Abundance" dog food, which is NOT available in stores. You can purchase it online at www.naturalfoodfordogs.com

They primary ingredient in this food is HUMAN-GRADE chicken meal. It also contains egg which is one of the most digestible forms of protein and is full of vitamins A, B, E, K, biotin and amino acids.

And it's got fish meal, which is high in Omega-3 fatty acids - great for your dog's skin and coat.

This is an all natural, organic food, rich in antioxidants from whole food sources such as carrots, spinach, celery, garlic, alfalfa leaf and apples.

It also contains brown rice - one of the most digestible carbohydrates, needed to give your dog energy.

Life's Abundance is the only food we know of that uses probiotics and beet pulp for a healthy digestive tract, with lactobacillus acidophilus to help maintain a balance of friendly bacteria in your dog's intestines.

Feedback from our clients who have switched to Life's Abundance is extremely positive. Dogs that are "finicky" eaters will devour it. One of our own dogs had problems with frequent loose stools, and this has completely cleared up since we switched her to this food.

This is a high quality food that gives you a lot of the benefits of feeding a raw diet, without the high costs and hassle of a raw diet. 

A cool feature at their website is that you can compare the ingredients in this food to the ingredients in the food you are using now. Just go to www.naturalfoodfordogs.com.

Bad Dog Manners

 

  • Is your dog pushy, defiant or disobedient?
  • Does he refuse to obey commands he knows unless he sees a food treat?
  • Does he come when called only when he has nothing better to do?
  • Does he growl when moved from a resting position?
  • Does he nudge your hand and demand petting?

This behavior in pet dogs almost always has a direct connection to the behavior of the owners.

We’ve all heard the old adage, “Treat your dog like a person and he’ll treat you like a dog.” Some bad habits in pet dogs can be traced to the owner “spoiling” the dog – treating the dog like a four-legged person. And sometimes the cause of undesirable behavior is genetic rather than environmental. But here’s the good news - regardless of the cause, the solution is the same!

Follow these two rules to help your “pushy” dog learn better manners:

  1. Practice “The Deference Protocol”

    • Simply stated, the deference protocol requires that your dog must earn everything that he or she gets from you. This important training principle is often referred to by trainers and behaviorists as NFL (“No Free Lunch”) or NILIF (“Nothing in Life is Free”).
    • The dog must defer to you by obeying a simple “sit” command before receiving toys, treats, petting, walks, food, going outside, etc. Before you do something for them, they must do something for you. “Want a treat? Sit.” “Want to go outside? Sit.”
    • When teaching your dog to defer, your attitude must be calm. No yelling, no drama, no hitting.

  2. Ignore all demands for attention.

    • Dogs must never be permitted to demand play, petting, toys or attention. The owner should initiate all pleasurable interaction with the dog. For example, when you return home, ignore the dog for 5 minutes, then call him to you to greet him. If Fido drops a tennis ball in your lap, ignore it. A few minutes later you can go get a ball and call him to you for a fun game of fetch. But it’s your idea, not his. You start the game, and you end the game.
    • Remember, rude behavior in dogs did not happen overnight, and it will not improve overnight. Any dog can learn better manners if you are patient and consistent.

HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG INTO A HOME WITH OTHER DOGS

 



Bringing a new dog into your home can be an exciting time. But many problems – including fights - can occur if the introduction process is not handled correctly. 
Dogs are social animals. When the number of dogs in the family is increased, there can sometimes be problems if the owners move too fast. The transition must be handled slowly and carefully.

Two dogs are more difficult to manage than one. And three or more dogs are a “pack.”  Whenever a new dog is added to a home, drive is elevated.  Dogs may become much more territorial and may compete for resources such as beds, food, bones, toys, treats and even owner attention. When dogs don’t have a clear human leader, these problems can intensify.


THE SOLUTIONS: OBEDIENCE TRAINING, CONTROL OF RESOURCES
AND CLEAR HUMAN LEADERSHIP



 When dogs have strong human leadership in the home, fights are less likely to occur. The owner makes it clear that aggressive behavior will not be tolerated.
Even so-called “difficult” dogs - once they are introduced into a home with a strong human leader – can live peacefully with other dogs. Dogs pick up on very subtle behavior cues (most of them non-verbal) from their owners. These are some of the skills we teach owners in our training programs.

Good human leaders are perceived by their dogs to be unquestionably in charge. They are benevolent, not dictatorial. They use correction - but never violence - to enforce the rules when necessary.
In multi-dog families, the owners must show the dog(s) that they will protect them from the other dogs if necessary. When it’s done right, introducing a new dog into a family which already has other dogs is an orderly, organized, nonviolent process.

The owner must carefully manage the introduction phase. For example:

  • The new dog must be kept on a 6 foot leash held by the owner, both inside and outside of the home for several days, from the moment he arrives. The number of days will vary depending on the behavior of your dogs, but generally we recommend that for the first 5 to 10 days, the new dog be kept on leash at all times. Being on a leash requires the dog to “follow the leader” from room to room. It also controls access to resources and helps form a strong bond with the owner right from the start.
  • Sometimes it is advisable for the existing family dog(s) to spend some time on leash inside the home as well.
  • Dog crates should be used. When the new dog cannot be kept on leash, he can rest safely and securely in his crate. 
  • Obedience training must be practiced with all of the dogs, not just the new one. Regular obedience lessons can help provide human leadership and control.
  • An occasional growl can be part of a dog’s normal communication process, but the key is to prevent circumstances which make these displays necessary. More aggressive behavior (snapping, lunging or biting) must be corrected immediately with a firm “no” and immediate removal of the offending dog(s) from the room for a while.  
  • The owner must control access to all resources to prevent the dogs from competing for them. Common triggers of dog fights include things like food, bones, toys, treats, owner attention and high places (like furniture or beds).
  • Young puppies and older dogs have different play styles. Do not allow a puppy to “bully” an older dog with rough play. Often, the older dog will tolerate a certain amount of rude behavior from a young puppy, but later when the older dog detects maturity in the puppy he will begin to aggressively defend himself.

Top 10 Mistakes Made by Dog Owners

Our trainers examined Canine Dimensions’ case histories from the past 5 years, and identified the “Top 10 Mistakes” made by dog owners: 

10) Shouting at the dog


Dogs should learn to obey commands given in a normal volume, without shouting. Unfortunately, people often learn that by yelling at a dog, they can momentarily interrupt bad behavior. But this is a temporary fix, not a long term solution. Frightening a dog breaks down the owner’s relationship with the dog, so fear should never be part of a training program. A well trained dog obeys commands given in a normal volume.

9)  Removing a puppy from a litter at too early an age.


Puppies need to remain with the litter until 7 to 10 weeks. Most toy breeds need to stay with the litter until the age of 10-12 weeks. Even if the mother dies, the litter should remain together until at least 7 weeks of age so that they can learn from each other. Puppies learn bite inhibition, den cleanliness, following leadership and much more from their early experiences in the litter. Some of our most challenging cases involve dogs who have been removed from the litter before the age of 7 weeks.

8) Hitting the dog.


Believe it or not, in spite of a mountain of information to the contrary, many people still feel it’s ok to hit their dogs. There is no valid justification for hitting a dog. It is never a solution to any dog training or behavior problem – in fact, it creates more problems than it solves.

7) (TIE) a) Putting the dog’s nose in its mess after a housebreaking accident.  b) Using paper or puppy pads for housebreaking.


a) Never, never take your dog back to an accident and stick his nose in the mess. This can lead to stool eating, aggression, fear, shyness and more. It's also a sure fire way to make the process of housebreaking take a whole lot longer.

b) Do not use paper or puppy pads during housebreaking. Teach the dog early on that the bathroom is outside. Using paper or pads inside the home confuses the dog and retards the housebreaking process.

6) Rolling a dog over on its back and holding it down to show "dominance".


This outdated technique (called the "Alpha Rollover") is based on flawed science and it does nothing to establish leadership. To the contrary, it can break down the bond between you and your dog and can lead to aggression. 

5) Getting a dog for protection


Protection trained dogs do best in military, police or security work, not as family pets.   “Amateur protection training” done at home often has disastrous consequences. If you want protection get an alarm system, not a dog.

4) Choosing the wrong breed for the family’s lifestyle.


There a number of breed selector quizzes available online. Take several of them and narrow your search to the breed that matches your family. Decide what you want in a pet dog - a jogging partner or a couch potato? A long lustrous coat or a coat that sheds less? Some breeds need a “job” – for example, a border collie is better suited for a herding job on a farm rather than living in a city apartment.

3) Adopting or purchasing 2 dogs from the same litter.


Sometimes this can work out fine, but more often it makes training, socialization and development more difficult. Look at it this way - if you visited a foreign country without an interpreter, you would learn to speak their language a lot faster. Similarly, one puppy will bond with the family faster, and learn things much more easily, than two puppies from the same litter. Two puppies from the same litter will often focus more on each other than on their new family.

2) Getting a second dog to keep the first dog company.


Dogs need HUMAN companionship and leadership. If you don’t have time for one dog, getting a second dog makes no sense.

#1 Mistake Made by Pet Dog Owners:


Getting a dog when you don’t have time for a dog.

Dogs require lots of time and attention. Behavior problems, housebreaking problems, poor socialization, destructiveness, boredom, obsessive behaviors like tail and light chasing, excessive barking, self-mutilation, excessive licking, choking on toys left in the crate all day, digging, yard escaping, fear, shyness, lack of exercise, insufficient play and mental stimulation are only a few of the challenges which arise when people don’t have time for their dogs. Excessive crating, locking a dog in a room or tying it out all day, free- feeding the dog or installing a doggy door so the dog can fend for itself will make things worse. Not to mention lack of time and attention for training and veterinary needs. A dog is not a goldfish. A dog is a pack animal with clearly defined social and developmental needs. Don’t get a dog unless you have time for a dog.

How Dogs Think

It’s not uncommon to hear owners report that their dogs will only follow commands inside the home, under low distraction, when they are focused on a food treat. But add a distraction like playing outside, or going to the park or vet’s office, and it seems like they can’t hear or can’t remember anything they’ve been taught.

That’s because dogs have 2 separate and distinct brain functions: the limbic system and the cerebral cortex. The limbic system is the center of all of the “doggy drives" like chase, forage, hunt and defend. The cerebral cortex controls more complex thought - let’s call them “doggy decisions.”

These 2 brain functions share an inverse relationship. When one is activated, the other is inhibited. That’s why, for example, an untrained dog will not come back to you when called if he is “busy” chasing a squirrel. A trained dog will stop, turn around and shoot back to you when called, even if he was in mid-chase. His training has taught him to interrupt the “doggy drive” and turn his thought-center back on.

Dog obedience training must be done using a process that works in harmony with these drives, not against them. When trained properly, your dog should follow obedience commands every time, under any distraction. Otherwise, the obedience commands are just parlor tricks and have no practical use.