Dog Food Facts

 

Because of the recent problem with contaminated dog foods, many of our clients have asked us to recommend a safe, healthy food for their pets.

We don't recommend ANY of the dog foods you can buy in stores.

The commercial dog foods that are available in stores contain fillers, by-products and chemical preservatives. They need to be transported and stored over long periods of time. In some cases a shipment can spend months waiting in storage or on a truck before it ever gets to the store. And then it will spend even more time on the store shelves. So they all contain chemical preservatives.

Also, dog food companies use things like wheat and soy to increase the protein percentage that you read on the bag, but  these fillers are not digestable. So you think you're getting a nourishing food because the bag indicates a high protein percentage, but they are not digestible proteins so it just becomes more for you to clean up in the yard.

And the "by-products" they are legally allowed to put in commercial dog food -  "beef digest" (guts), "chicken by-products" (beaks, feet) -YECH!

That's why we do not recommend ANY of the dog foods you can buy in stores.

The only commercial dog food we recommend is Dr. Jane Bicks' "Life's Abundance" dog food, which is NOT available in stores. You can purchase it online at www.naturalfoodfordogs.com

They primary ingredient in this food is HUMAN-GRADE chicken meal. It also contains egg which is one of the most digestible forms of protein and is full of vitamins A, B, E, K, biotin and amino acids.

And it's got fish meal, which is high in Omega-3 fatty acids - great for your dog's skin and coat.

This is an all natural, organic food, rich in antioxidants from whole food sources such as carrots, spinach, celery, garlic, alfalfa leaf and apples.

It also contains brown rice - one of the most digestible carbohydrates, needed to give your dog energy.

Life's Abundance is the only food we know of that uses probiotics and beet pulp for a healthy digestive tract, with lactobacillus acidophilus to help maintain a balance of friendly bacteria in your dog's intestines.

Feedback from our clients who have switched to Life's Abundance is extremely positive. Dogs that are "finicky" eaters will devour it. One of our own dogs had problems with frequent loose stools, and this has completely cleared up since we switched her to this food.

This is a high quality food that gives you a lot of the benefits of feeding a raw diet, without the high costs and hassle of a raw diet. 

A cool feature at their website is that you can compare the ingredients in this food to the ingredients in the food you are using now. Just go to www.naturalfoodfordogs.com.

Bad Dog Manners

 

• Is your dog pushy, defiant or disobedient?
• Does he refuse to obey commands he knows unless he sees a food treat?
• Does he come when called only when he has nothing better to do?
• Does he growl when moved from a resting position?
• Does he nudge your hand and demand petting?

This behavior in pet dogs almost always has a direct connection to the behavior of the owners.

We’ve all heard the old adage, “Treat your dog like a person and he’ll treat you like a dog.” Some bad habits in pet dogs can be traced to the owner “spoiling” the dog – treating the dog like a four-legged person. And sometimes the cause of undesirable behavior is genetic rather than environmental. But here’s the good news - regardless of the cause, the solution is the same!

Follow these two rules to help your “pushy” dog learn better manners:

1. Practice “The Deference Protocol”

   • Simply stated, the deference protocol requires that your dog must earn everything that he or she gets from you. This important training principle is often referred to by trainers and behaviorists as NFL (“No Free Lunch”) or NILIF (“Nothing in Life is Free”).
   • The dog must defer to you by obeying a simple “sit” command before receiving toys, treats, petting, walks, food, going outside, etc. Before you do something for them, they must do something for you. “Want a treat? Sit.” “Want to go outside? Sit.”
   • When teaching your dog to defer, your attitude must be calm. No yelling, no drama, no hitting.
   
   

2. Ignore all demands for attention.

   • Dogs must never be permitted to demand play, petting, toys or attention. The owner should initiate all pleasurable interaction with the dog. For example, when you return home, ignore the dog for 5 minutes, then call him to you to greet him. If Fido drops a tennis ball in your lap, ignore it. A few minutes later you can go get a ball and call him to you for a fun game of fetch. But it’s your idea, not his. You start the game, and you end the game.
   • Remember, rude behavior in dogs did not happen overnight, and it will not improve overnight. Any dog can learn better manners if you are patient and consistent.

HOW TO INTRODUCE A NEW DOG INTO A HOME WITH OTHER DOGS

 

Bringing a new dog into your home can be an exciting time. But many problems – including fights - can occur if the introduction process is not handled correctly. 
Dogs are social animals. When the number of dogs in the family is increased, there can sometimes be problems if the owners move too fast. The transition must be handled slowly and carefully.

Two dogs are more difficult to manage than one. And three or more dogs are a “pack.”  Whenever a new dog is added to a home, drive is elevated.  Dogs may become much more territorial and may compete for resources such as beds, food, bones, toys, treats and even owner attention. When dogs don’t have a clear human leader, these problems can intensify.

THE SOLUTIONS: OBEDIENCE TRAINING, CONTROL OF RESOURCES
AND CLEAR HUMAN LEADERSHIP

 When dogs have strong human leadership in the home, fights are less likely to occur. The owner makes it clear that aggressive behavior will not be tolerated.
Even so-called “difficult” dogs - once they are introduced into a home with a strong human leader – can live peacefully with other dogs. Dogs pick up on very subtle behavior cues (most of them non-verbal) from their owners. These are some of the skills we teach owners in our training programs.

Good human leaders are perceived by their dogs to be unquestionably in charge. They are benevolent, not dictatorial. They use correction - but never violence - to enforce the rules when necessary.
In multi-dog families, the owners must show the dog(s) that they will protect them from the other dogs if necessary. When it’s done right, introducing a new dog into a family which already has other dogs is an orderly, organized, nonviolent process.

The owner must carefully manage the introduction phase. For example:

• The new dog must be kept on a 6 foot leash held by the owner, both inside and outside of the home for several days, from the moment he arrives. The number of days will vary depending on the behavior of your dogs, but generally we recommend that for the first 5 to 10 days, the new dog be kept on leash at all times. Being on a leash requires the dog to “follow the leader” from room to room. It also controls access to resources and helps form a strong bond with the owner right from the start.
  
• Sometimes it is advisable for the existing family dog(s) to spend some time on leash inside the home as well.
  
• Dog crates should be used. When the new dog cannot be kept on leash, he can rest safely and securely in his crate. 
  
• Obedience training must be practiced with all of the dogs, not just the new one. Regular obedience lessons can help provide human leadership and control.
• An occasional growl can be part of a dog’s normal communication process, but the key is to prevent circumstances which make these displays necessary. More aggressive behavior (snapping, lunging or biting) must be corrected immediately with a firm “no” and immediate removal of the offending dog(s) from the room for a while.  
• The owner must control access to all resources to prevent the dogs from competing for them. Common triggers of dog fights include things like food, bones, toys, treats, owner attention and high places (like furniture or beds).
• Young puppies and older dogs have different play styles. Do not allow a puppy to “bully” an older dog with rough play. Often, the older dog will tolerate a certain amount of rude behavior from a young puppy, but later when the older dog detects maturity in the puppy he will begin to aggressively defend himself.

Top 10 Mistakes Made by Dog Owners

Our trainers examined Canine Dimensions’ case histories from the past 5 years, and identified the “Top 10 Mistakes” made by dog owners: 

10) Shouting at the dog

Dogs should learn to obey commands given in a normal volume, without shouting. Unfortunately, people often learn that by yelling at a dog, they can momentarily interrupt bad behavior. But this is a temporary fix, not a long term solution. Frightening a dog breaks down the owner’s relationship with the dog, so fear should never be part of a training program. A well trained dog obeys commands given in a normal volume.

9)  Removing a puppy from a litter at too early an age.

Puppies need to remain with the litter until 7 to 10 weeks. Most toy breeds need to stay with the litter until the age of 10-12 weeks. Even if the mother dies, the litter should remain together until at least 7 weeks of age so that they can learn from each other. Puppies learn bite inhibition, den cleanliness, following leadership and much more from their early experiences in the litter. Some of our most challenging cases involve dogs who have been removed from the litter before the age of 7 weeks.

8) Hitting the dog.

Believe it or not, in spite of a mountain of information to the contrary, many people still feel it’s ok to hit their dogs. There is no valid justification for hitting a dog. It is never a solution to any dog training or behavior problem – in fact, it creates more problems than it solves.

7) (TIE) a) Putting the dog’s nose in its mess after a housebreaking accident.  b) Using paper or puppy pads for housebreaking.

a) Never, never take your dog back to an accident and stick his nose in the mess. This can lead to stool eating, aggression, fear, shyness and more. It's also a sure fire way to make the process of housebreaking take a whole lot longer.

b) Do not use paper or puppy pads during housebreaking. Teach the dog early on that the bathroom is outside. Using paper or pads inside the home confuses the dog and retards the housebreaking process.

6) Rolling a dog over on its back and holding it down to show "dominance".

This outdated technique (called the "Alpha Rollover") is based on flawed science and it does nothing to establish leadership. To the contrary, it can break down the bond between you and your dog and can lead to aggression. 

5) Getting a dog for protection

Protection trained dogs do best in military, police or security work, not as family pets.   “Amateur protection training” done at home often has disastrous consequences. If you want protection get an alarm system, not a dog.

4) Choosing the wrong breed for the family’s lifestyle.

There a number of breed selector quizzes available online. Take several of them and narrow your search to the breed that matches your family. Decide what you want in a pet dog - a jogging partner or a couch potato? A long lustrous coat or a coat that sheds less? Some breeds need a “job” – for example, a border collie is better suited for a herding job on a farm rather than living in a city apartment.

3) Adopting or purchasing 2 dogs from the same litter.

Sometimes this can work out fine, but more often it makes training, socialization and development more difficult. Look at it this way - if you visited a foreign country without an interpreter, you would learn to speak their language a lot faster. Similarly, one puppy will bond with the family faster, and learn things much more easily, than two puppies from the same litter. Two puppies from the same litter will often focus more on each other than on their new family.

2) Getting a second dog to keep the first dog company.

Dogs need HUMAN companionship and leadership. If you don’t have time for one dog, getting a second dog makes no sense.

#1 Mistake Made by Pet Dog Owners:

Getting a dog when you don’t have time for a dog.

Dogs require lots of time and attention. Behavior problems, housebreaking problems, poor socialization, destructiveness, boredom, obsessive behaviors like tail and light chasing, excessive barking, self-mutilation, excessive licking, choking on toys left in the crate all day, digging, yard escaping, fear, shyness, lack of exercise, insufficient play and mental stimulation are only a few of the challenges which arise when people don’t have time for their dogs. Excessive crating, locking a dog in a room or tying it out all day, free- feeding the dog or installing a doggy door so the dog can fend for itself will make things worse. Not to mention lack of time and attention for training and veterinary needs. A dog is not a goldfish. A dog is a pack animal with clearly defined social and developmental needs. Don’t get a dog unless you have time for a dog.

How Dogs Think

It’s not uncommon to hear owners report that their dogs will only follow commands inside the home, under low distraction, when they are focused on a food treat. But add a distraction like playing outside, or going to the park or vet’s office, and it seems like they can’t hear or can’t remember anything they’ve been taught.

That’s because dogs have 2 separate and distinct brain functions: the limbic system and the cerebral cortex. The limbic system is the center of all of the “doggy drives" like chase, forage, hunt and defend. The cerebral cortex controls more complex thought - let’s call them “doggy decisions.”

These 2 brain functions share an inverse relationship. When one is activated, the other is inhibited. That’s why, for example, an untrained dog will not come back to you when called if he is “busy” chasing a squirrel. A trained dog will stop, turn around and shoot back to you when called, even if he was in mid-chase. His training has taught him to interrupt the “doggy drive” and turn his thought-center back on.

Dog obedience training must be done using a process that works in harmony with these drives, not against them. When trained properly, your dog should follow obedience commands every time, under any distraction. Otherwise, the obedience commands are just parlor tricks and have no practical use.

Why All The Fuss About "Puppy Mills?"

Here in South Jersey, protesters regularly gather outside pet shops to protest the sale of puppies. They claim that the puppies come from "puppy mills" but the owners of the stores claim that they come from "breeders." So what's the difference, and why do we so often hear that people should not buy their dogs from pet shops or puppy mills?

According to the ASPCA, "Puppy mills are large-scale commercial dog-breeding operations where profit is given priority over the well-being of the dogs. Unlike responsible breeders, who place the utmost importance on producing the healthiest puppies possible, puppy mill owners disregard genetic quality. This often results in generations of dogs with hereditary defects, including dental abnormalities, eye problems and limb deformities. Legitimate breeders also put a lot of effort into giving puppies a good start in life by providing proper nutrition, veterinary attention and thorough socialization. Unfortunately, puppy mill dogs aren’t so lucky. Puppy mills usually house dogs in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions, without adequate veterinary care, food, water or socialization. The dogs don’t get to experience treats, toys, exercise or basic grooming. To minimize waste cleanup, they’re often kept in cages with wire flooring that injures their paws and legs—and it’s not unusual for cages to be stacked in tall columns. Dogs used for breeding often spend their entire lives outdoors, exposed to the elements, or indoors, crammed inside filthy structures where they never get the chance to feel the sun or a gust of fresh air on their faces."

Responsible breeders do not sell their puppies to pet shops, period. EVERY puppy you see in a  pet shop came from a  puppy mill, regardless of what the pet shop owners will tell you. In addition to health problems, many of these puppies have behavior problems resulting from inbreeding, poor early crate training, removal from their litters at too young an age, and lack of appropriate early socialization. 

Some FAQs:

Q) But if the puppy has already arrived at my local pet shop, why not buy one and give the puppy a chance at life in a family?

A) It all comes down to supply and demand. The reason that puppy mills exist at all is that people buy them. If no one bought them, the puppy mills could not stay in operation. Buying a dog from a pet shop supports the puppy mill industry.

Q) My friend bought a puppy from a pet shop, and it lived a long healthy life and had none of the behavior problems  you mentioned.

A) If you buy a puppy from a pet shop, it is theoretically possible that you might get a healthy one, but the odds of having one of the above problems is much greater than buying from a responsible breeder.

Q) Ok, you've convinced me to stay away from pet shops, but how can I tell if a "breeder" I find on the Internet is a "responsible breeder?"

A) Check with local rescues - they know who's who in that area. Also, prices are very low for puppy mill dogs compared to dogs purchased from legitimate breeders. Here is some good advice from the AKC:

• To find a responsible breeder, go to a dog show or access the AKC Matketplace. The breeder referral officer for the parent club is the best contact. Local all-breed kennel clubs in your neighborhood are also a good option to find reputable breeders. Find an AKC club in your area by using this directory: http://www.akc.org/clubs/search/index.cfm
  
• Don't be put off if a breeder isn't immediately responsive. Hobby breeders often have full-time jobs and they don't always have available puppies. Be selective. Find a breeder who is knowledgeable and make sure you're comfortable with them.
  
• Visit the breeder's home or kennel and ask to see at least one of the puppy's parents. Get an idea of what the future holds for your dog in terms of temperament and appearance.
  
• Observe the premises. Is the house/kennel clean? Odor-free? Dogs and puppies should be clean, well fed, lively and friendly. Look for signs of malnutrition such as protruding rib cages or illness such as runny nose/eyes, coughing, lethargy and skin sores.
  
• Pay attention to how the dogs and puppies interact with their breeder. Does the breeder appear to genuinely care for the puppies and their adult dogs? Both dogs and puppies should not shy away from the breeder and should be outgoing with strangers.
  
• Find out about the health of your puppy and its parents. Breeders should be honest about the breed's strengths and weaknesses and knowledgeable about the genetic diseases that can affect their breed - including what's being done to avoid them. Breeders should be willing to share proof of health screenings such as OFA and CERF certificates with potential buyers.
  
• Establish a good rapport with the breeder. He/she will be an excellent resource and breed mentor for you throughout the life of your puppy. You should be encouraged to call the breeder if your dog has a crisis at any stage of its life.
  
• A responsible breeder may ask you to sign a contract indicating that if specified conditions of care are not met or you become unable to keep the puppy, he/she will reclaim it.
  
• Don't expect to bring home the puppy until its eight to 12 weeks of age. Puppies need ample time to mature and socialize with its mother and littermates.
  
• Breeders should be willing to answer any questions you have and should ask many of you as well. Breeders will want to make sure their puppies are going to good homes, with people who know what to expect and have made all the necessary preparations.
  
• Don't leave the premises without the appropriate documentation of the dog's pedigree, a.k.a. "papers." The words "American Kennel Club" as well as the AKC logo should be clearly visible. You'll need to send in this application form to register your dog with the AKC. Be wary of a breeder who refuses/hesitates to give you papers, wants to charge you more for AKC papers, offers papers from a registry other than the AKC, or tells you he/she will mail them to you at a later date.
  
• While the AKC does not have penal or regulatory authority, AKC conducts thousands of its own inspections each year. Breeders who have major kennel deficiencies may lose AKC privileges (ability to register dogs or compete in events). In some cases, fines will be imposed, AKC privileges may be suspended indefinitely and appropriate law enforcement authorities are contacted. If you would like to ensure that the breeder you are dealing with is in good standing with the AKC, contact AKC Customer Service at 919-233-9767 or Info@akc.org .
  

How to Raise a Perfect Puppy...In One Word

The best piece of advice for raising a puppy can be summed up in one 5 letter word: L-E-A-S-H. 
A plethora of behavior problems that owners struggle with can be completely avoided if they follow one simple rule:   never leave him alone to make his own decisions. 

Raising a puppy means teaching him what is acceptable and what is not, every minute of every day. Whenever you leave a puppy alone to make his own choices, he will always make wrong ones. 

When I am raising a puppy, he is never out of my sight for a minute unless he’s in his crate. This is accomplished with a very sophisticated piece of training equipment spelled: L-E-A-S-H. 

When he’s not in the crate, he is on a leash attached to me. Not only does this build confidence and trust, but it also forms a strong bond and prevents a host of behavior problems.  Inside he’s on a 6 foot leash and outside he’s on a  20 foot leash. We do this until he is 6 months old. Then he gets to drag the leash around behind him for a few weeks, and if everything is going smoothly, he gets to spend some time off the leash.  

The result? When we have a puppy in our home we have NO: housebreaking accidents, hard play biting, destructive chewing, digging, food stealing, object stealing, not coming when called, playing keep away, jumping all over the furniture, crate aversion, crate soiling, crate barking, separation problems, insecurity, eating found objects, bullying our other dogs, begging for food at the table, running out the door, or anything else that we would rather not have him do.

Makes sense, doesn't it?  Yes, but there is one problem - dog owners absolutely HATE hearing this advice. They reject it immediately, saying things like:  “I don’t have time for that.” “We had dogs all our lives and we never did that.” “He keeps chewing on the leash when we try that.”  “I don’t want him to get too clingy.” “How is he supposed to have any fun?”  and more.

Yes, your puppy is going to chew on his leash unless he has something better to chew on. So make sure he always has something better in his mouth to chew on. And buy a few cheap throwaway leashes from the bargain bin at the pet store.

Puppy owners who reject my leash advice instead ask for quick tricks, “How do I stop him from....”  When they ask this, they're asking how they can punish the bad behavior. The problem with punishing young puppies is that there are too many moving parts. Too many things can go wrong.  Fearful behavior is partly genetic but partly environmental. We cannot control the former, but we must control the latter.  Rather than relying on punishing bad behavior in a puppy, why not simply prevent it in the first place? 

If you own a puppy, it's your job to teach her the rules! Responsible pet parents understand that puppies are learning new things every day. They help them learn the right things, by keeping them nearby.  To accomplish this, there is no better tool than the leash.